I pay – more or less one dollar US – and step closer to the gathering crowd in the middle. My Setswana is limited, but it’s more than enough. “Ke batla Black.” Setswana for “I want a Black (Label).” Illuminated by the moon and I walk through the maze of tin shacks – the first right, then straight, a short left and another right, following the music to one of the drinking haunts. Coyne © 2017 Gifts for Card Players The sky is overcast and the sun has just started setting over one of South Africa’s many townships.